My father has lived in Genazzano, a beautiful walled hilltop town east and slightly south of Rome, for about 5 years now. I’ve not visited nearly enough for my taste, and I’m sure not for his either!

We are quite fortunate to have been adopted into his wife’s small but extremely generous family. From the moment we met on the terrace of their farmhouse, it was as if we had always been family. Their home in “campagna” (the countryside outside of town) is one of my favorite places to visit in the world… one of only two places that could ever take me from my beloved NYC!

On a recent visit, after spending several days alone in Rome, my father brought me directly from the train station to the house in campagna for a welcome lunch. As you can imagine, this was no simple lunch! Spaghetti with spicy red clam sauce, merluzza (cod) with tomato sauce, wild quail braised in white wine, and  fagiolini (a type of green bean) baked in béchamel, served with three types of local wines… then on to fresh fruits, cakes, espresso, and grappa to finish it all off… and this was a “simple” lunch!

After such a glorious welcome lunch, the late afternoon begged for something quiet and peaceful. My father’s wife is an architectural historian (to simplify the description) and the best personal tour guide to the ancient towns around Rome (and the city of, for that matter) that you could possibly ask for – and she speaks perfect English (unlike the rest of the family, who speak as much English as I speak Italian – you can laugh now!).

We spent the rest of the day in the ancient town of Palestrina (all you ancient-Rome geeks, eat your heart out!) visiting the Museo Archeologico Prenestino – the National Archeological Museum of Palestrina that is housed in the former Palazzo Barberini-Colona built upon the ancient temple to Fortuna. The ever-growing collection of impeccably preserved mosaics are well worth the trip… private family tour guide not included!

As I mentioned in a previous post, on a recent visit to Italy, I decided to spend a few days alone in the city before heading south to Genazzano to spend time with my father. My last day in the city, I wandered from piazza to piazza taking in the sounds, smells, and more than my fair share of gelato. My time alone in Rome was quite a contrast to my time with family in “campagna”… here’s an example.

One of my stops was the market at the Campo di Fiore, one of the most popular sites with tourists that is equally popular with locals. As I marveled at the heaps of exotic (to me) puntarelle and the bushels of purple-tinged artichokes in all sizes, I wished for a kitchen and a large group of friends and family to feed the many dishes my mind was preparing in a fantasy of olive oil and fresh pasta.

I stopped for real Roman pizza at a small bakery at the far corner of the piazza then purchased a bag of olives “nero al forno” (roasted black olives) to bring back to my room. Later that evening, I relaxed with a bottle of Frascati, the local white wine, and my treats from the market sat on my small terrace in the back of the Hotel Artorius. The view was of the rooftops and tiny yards behind ancient buildings – laundry and flowers hung from every available perch. This now trendy neighborhood was an ancient slum even at the time when Julius Caesar purchased an apartment building here for his daughter as a wedding gift! Places like this always “speak” to me on a deep level; some things must be appreciated alone.

Then there are the many experiences that would not exist if it were not for large groups of loved ones! More on that in the next post…

I originally wrote this in October 2008, I’ve edited it a bit for this, but the heart of the story remains strong. I’ve been thinking about my friend Sandra quite a bit lately – especially since I know I recently missed her infamous “Fish Night”! This, as she will not be surprised to see, is all about her (isn’t everything, Bella?!).

Under the guise of a business trip, I left the Roman countryside for three days and nights at the Tuscan seashore. My plan: to visit a vacation cooking school called Toscana Saporita  on the Camporomano estate near Lucca, where owner Sandra Lotti has been holding court for over a decade. Despite the scenery, the fabulous food and wine, and the beautiful men (more on that in a bit!), meeting Sandra was the highlight of my journey.

As I planned my trip to Italy, Toscana Saporita was recommended by a colleague who had visited in the past – our schools have an ongoing relationship; several of our alumni work, or have worked, with Sandra over the years. In preparing me for my visit, I was told, “the woman who runs the school is a real Diva”… given the source of the remark, I considered this high praise and looked forward to the visit even more! This certainly did not prepare me for the whirlwind of energy, knowledge, and passion for life in a blonde wig that is Sandra!

To say she is deeply knowledgeable and passionate about her culture and sharing it barely scratches the surface. Diva-hood is a big part of her charm (no wilting flower here) – she has a heart of gold and a tiara to match! Sandra does not simply teach, cook, and write of Tuscan food and culture, she exalts it… she preaches with the zeal of the most devout evangelist… from food selection to the cooking vessel to accompaniments chosen, she has a sermon for each step of the way. Then she feeds you – before the primi is over, you are hooked for life!

Like any good Diva, Sandra does all this surrounded by a crew of talented, passionate, warm-hearted, fun, and incredibly beautiful young men! During my visit, each played a role in a well-orchestrated interactive performance that drew the guests into their inner circle of private jokes, familial play, friendly competition, and absolute passion for good food. I’d never leave my kitchen if I shared it with these guys!

I mentioned a blonde wig. Sandra recently completed chemotherapy for breast cancer and is eagerly awaiting the return of her hair. In the meantime, she dons a sassy blonde wig that has a personality all its own! To me, everything about Sandra was inspiration enough already… the fact that she is a breast cancer survivor who continued to inspire students each day throughout her treatment, and continues to live life at a level of passion and intensity that would exhaust the average person, only make her more fabulous!

As I mentioned, this was written last year (in October)… since then, Sandra’s lovely locks have returned in full force… she’s even blonde again, and seems sassy as ever! I can’t wait to see her again someday soon!