Honoring the Past

There are two gastronomic institutions that I am mourning today. First, the loss of the grand food and culture periodical Gourmet, and second, the anniversary of the passing of one of the best food writers ever, R.W. “Johnny” Apple, Jr. 

gourmet

I was too stunned yesterday to write about the passing of Gourmet magazine. Gourmet was my first “food porn” in the mid-1980s and has remained a steady part of my monthly diet since. I can’t imagine planning holiday meals without the inspiration and fantasy Gourmet provided.

It’s heartbreaking to realize the direction popular food media has taken – from the elegance and finesse of cuisine and culture (back) to the freezer case and prepared “almost homemade” aisle (a different side of our culture that I am adamantly opposed to).

Quoting his obituary in the NY Times, “R. W. Apple Jr., who in more than 40 years as a correspondent and editor at The New York Times wrote about war and revolution, politics and government, food and drink, and the revenge of living well from more than 100 countries, died Oct. 4, 2006 in Washington. He was 71.” I had the pleasure of working with Mr. Apple during the Worlds of Flavor conference at the CIA at Greystone a couple years before he died. It was one of the more memorable experiences of my time working there… his love of food and his willingness to share his enthusiasm for all subjects made him the center of attention wherever he went.

johnny apple

There is a new book out called “Far Flung and Well Fed: The Food Writing of R.W. Apple, Jr.” (click this link for more information about the book). I can’t say that I’ve read it yet, but it is now at the top of my Amazon purchase list! You can get it by clicking here… Far Flung and Well Fed: The Food Writing of R.W. Apple, Jr.

Living Legends, Part III

Today is the second (and last) day of the New York Culinary Experience 2009 at FCI. It’s been an amazing event so far (and promises to get better before it’s over)!
There has been a mix of high-profile chefs, new and old through the kitchens this weekend. I’ve noticed a huge difference in how these people operate. Many of the newer chefs seem more concerned with appearances and entertaining. The older ones are more at ease with their craft and exhibit so much more finesse.
One person who continuously inspires and humbles me is the living legend (and, dare I say, friend) Chef Andre Soltner.
When Chef Soltner was at the helm at Lutece he worked every day the restaurant was open – for over 30 years – every day! Now, over a decade after leaving his stove, he still teaches classes and does demonstrations on a regular basis, AND does all his own prep work (side by side with awestruck assistants).
Today he is captivating a group of 24 eager food lovers with his infamous Alsatian tart and twinkling smile!

Living Legends, Part II

I’ve been working A LOT lately… and I take many an opportunity to complain about that. What I’ve not done enough of in the past several weeks (besides write, of course) is count my blessings.

I forget that my “work” would be another person’s fantasy. In fact, hundreds of people are paying a very substantial price this coming weekend (10/3 & 4/2009) to spend two brief days in my world (for the New York Culinary Experience)… for me, until I had a chance to consider it more objectively, it has been just another reason to complain about working too much. After Wednesday afternoon, I’m feeling different about that.

Wednesday was the last of three final exam days/nights at The French Culinary Institute. For each final we have a jury of prominent chefs and restaurateurs come in to judge the students’ cooking. This is always a big deal with plenty of culinary luminaries floating in an out; but yesterday was by far the most extraordinary group in a long time.

The panel included the chef/owner of the famed Lutece (and FCI Dean of Classic Studies), Chef Andre Soltner and his former saucier of 21 years, Chef Jacques Coustar; and a very special guest, Sirio Maccioni – founder and eternal presence at Le Cirque, along with executive chefs past and present, current Chef Craig Hobson and former Le Cirque head toque, and FCI’s Dean Emeritus Chef Alain Sailhac (my long-time mentor). It was an honor to serve them (and all the other wonderful judges) that day.

It reminded me of how much I love what I do. Just in time to do it a whole bunch more of the next several days!

Living Legends, Part I

Jacques Pepin:

Recently I had the pleasure of working an event with French Culinary Institute Dean (and beloved television personality) Chef Jacques Pepin. As a chef and administrator at the school, and as an alumna from the days when he was there a lot more often, I’ve had the great pleasure of working near (if not with) Chef Pepin numerous times over the past 15 years. This was one of my favorites (second only to a 1993 caviar & truffle class where we gorged on Jacques’ omelets as a finale).

These photos were taken at the WLIW Autumn Gourmet Classic – for more about the event and video of Jacques, click here. Jacques Pepin demonstrated instant-cure salmon (from his Celebrate! book) then presented it in a variety of platings, all using the exact same ingredients – salmon, cucumber, pumpernickel, horseradish butter, capers, lemon, parsley and red onion.

As an hors d'ouevre
As an hors d'ouevre
Plate #2
Plate #1
Plate #1
Plate #2

Lobster Roll

A weekend way out on Long Island would not be complete without a trip to the Lobster Roll . There are two; one on the north shore in Riverhead and one (aka “LUNCH”) on Route 27 east of Amagansett.

LUNCH
(sorry about the unknown man)

Since we are staying in the most adorable cottage with a lovely back deck, we opted for take out this time. The drive back to the house with bags full of lobster rolls, oyster rolls, steamers and fries was torture! (but we were well behaved, for once!)

A Moveable Feast
A Moveable Feast

Six of us feasted on huge quantities of our Long Island favorites along with local wines (some favorites include Jamesport Vineyards, Paumanok Vineyards, Channing Daughters, and Bedell Cellars/Corey Creek Vineyards) and not-so-local beer.

Here’s the menu:

Lobster Roll (of course)
Lobster Roll (of course)
Crabcake Sandwich
Crabcake Sandwich
Fried Oyster Roll - my favorite
Fried Oyster Roll - my favorite
Steamers (aka "Pissers")
Steamers (aka "Pissers")

French Fries

Coleslaw

Fresh-baked Blueberry Crumb Pie (sorry, no photo)

Overall a wonderful weekend with my family – so glad my sister Torie and her husband Kevin were able to be here to enjoy it with us!

Finally, Part II

Ipppudo was wonderful. The problem with a restaurant getting a lot of hype and build up from your friends is that most places rarely live up to the stratospheric expectations. That said. Ippudo was wonderful… Not the mind-blowing experience I was hoping for, but worth the 45 minute wait at the friendly bar while enjoying chicken buns and much-needed cold beer (draft Kirin) with my friends.

The buns: Mindy swears by the chicken buns here so we didn’t try the pork, meaning the following comparisons are not technically even. Despite the fact that they were tasty, I have to say, unlike Fatty Crab & Momo, I was not really craving more.

Agadashi tofu: beautiful and quite tasty. Could have eaten seconds, maybe thirds of that one.

Akamaru Modern Ramen with noodles cooked firm and an added poached egg: skip the added poached egg. All of ours were different and none was warm or custardy enough to satisfy. Mindy said to get the hardboiled egg next time (I will). Eggs aside, this is a great dish, especially with the firm noodles. Hearty, satisfying. I’d definitely go back for it… Just don’t think I would ever have lustful dreams of it like I do with Momofuku Ramen. Maybe it’s just me…

Ginga Kogen beer: in a cobalt blue bottle. Amazing stuff. The perfect Riesling of beers… Spicey, aromatic and refreshing. If I wasn’t so completely stuffed, I would have liked a couple more of these… Another reason to return.

Next time, expectations will be in check and I will definitely try the pork buns during my worthwhile 45 minute wait!

Sorry for the dark pictures. Antique iPhone has no flash!